Mrs. Royall's Pennsylvania
or Travels Continued in the United States
Mrs. Royall's Pennsylvania or Travels Continued in the United States by Mrs. Anne Royall. Volume II. Washington : Printed for the Author, 1829. "Journey to Pittsburg," pages 37-135.
Geography of the City
Topography
Police
Western University
Miss Parry
Misses Roberts and Campbell
The Sisters of Charity
High School
Museum
Physicians
The Mayor
Merchants
Editors
Ladies
Manufactures
Journey to Pittsburg.
The day was fine, and the country beautiful; and my pleasure may easily be imagined.After gaining the west side of the mountains the land is broken off into rounding swells of exquisite beauty, with a deep soil, covered with sugar-tree, walnut, beech, hickory, and locust--the tops of the trees in the hollows being even with the summit of the hills. The winding streams--the neat bridges, intermingled with factories and fertile meadows--the sportive colt--the massy barns, enlivened the prospect the whole way.* On the top of every hill we have a grand prospect of the country for many miles, all uniformly rich, and the sugar-tree growing upon the summit of the hills as thick as hemp-stocks. It is impossible to describe the stateliness and exquisite symetry [sic] of these trees--so tall, so straight and slender; and yet the inhabitants, from never having seen any other, do not seem to appreciate the beauty and wealth of their country.
Every now and then the rolling volumes of smoke proclaimed a dwelling at hand. Here we have brick instead of stone houses--very few stone houses appear west of the mountains--also, white headed children and handsome young women. These always come to the door to peep at the passengers. But, to their great disappointment, there was but one rather shabby beau in the coach, and advanced in years, and, very probably a married man.
The woollen frocks, red and blue stripes, seems to be the national dress of the females from Bedford to Pittsburg. But the flush of the cheek, bright and lively eye, the glossy hair, fair complexion, and steady, innocent countenance threw the costume far in the shade.
We had not proceeded more than half a dozen miles from Greensburg when
a poor old man met us in the road, and taking his old hat from his head,
held it out for charity, without speaking a word. The cruel driver was
passing him rapidly, when I called to him to stop,
* You scarcely go a mile in Pennsylvania but you see a Preacher as signboards are called. They point out the road, but never travel it.
and had to speak very sharp to him before I could prevail. I threw a trifle into the hat, and my fellow-traveller, much to his honor, did the same, though his purse, like my own, was light. The beggar was the most pitiable looking object I ever saw, doubtless the victim of drink. He looked as if he had been half roasted, and tottered as he walked along, his limbs being scarce able to carry him. He muttered something upon receiving the bounty, and would no doubt spend it at the first tavern he came to, though he had more need of meat than drink.
At the last stage on this side of Pittsburg, where we changed drivers, horses and coaches, another of the line of robbers lives. I forgot my gloves in the coach, which were a present from Miss Keime, of Reading; and, upon getting into the fresh coach, I left them on the seat of the other stage-coach, but the landlord denied they were there! I was much hurt to part with the gloves, for the sake of the donor. They would have proved a great friend eventually, had the robber not stripped me of them--the last thing that was left me. Not contented with this act of cruelty, the ruffian had the insolence to walk some distance to the stage I was sitting in, and bringing an old book in his hand, opened the door of the carriage and said, "Here is a book some gentlemen left here, is it your's [sic]?" He seemed well acquainted with the gentlemen, as he called them, and was no doubt in the secret of the robbery. Thus, a regular line of robbers, as well as stages, is formed from the top of the Allegheny to Pittsburg; and this line I see has recently been advertised as one of the best in the Union. It must have mended its manners greatly since I travelled in it.
Towards evening we came in sight of the Monongahela, on our left: the
appearance added to the multiform picture which now presented itself to the
astonished eye! It is in vain to attempt a description of the stranger's
feelings upon a first view of the scenery. Fields encircled by hills, and
hills encircled by fields; the multitude of teams laden with iron for the
Pittsburg forges; the vast black coal-wagons; the jolly drivers and
work-hands,
We soon however, lose sight of Monongahela, and the Allegheny meets your eye to the right, and the throng and bustle continue to increase till we arrived in the city.
It grew dark some time before we reached the suburbs, which from the volumes of smoke, fires, and thundering of steam-factories, I took for the city itself; we pass through this uproar of machinery upwards of two miles before we reach Pittsburg. The blood-tinged blaze, intermingled with volumes of smoke, rushing onwards and upwards, crossways and oblique; it was equal to an exhibition of fire-works.
The Arsenal of the United States, lies about two miles above Pittsburg on the Alleghany [sic] river, here the man who travelled with me got out of the stage and proceeded to the arsenal where he it appears was engaged as a gunsmith. The woman who lived in Ohio, went on to Pittsburg, where I arrived the 4th of December, 1828, having lost every thing but the clothes on my back and the reticule in my bosom, where I placed it for safety. From the time I left Philadelphia, 14th October, one month and 20 days, I had travelled ----- miles. The only time reckoned as lost was one day perhaps at Greensburg where I spent three days. The public will therefore see by my travels how this time was filled up. I ought to have mentioned that my friend Col. Rhorer came to Pittsburg the same day as commandant of a guard, who conveyed a prisoner from Greensburg to the State prison in Pittsburg. They did not however permit me the honor of travelling in company. The Col. called on me however sundry times while he remained in the city, and I parted with him finally with great regret.
It may be supposed I felt a little anxiety upon drawing near the stage house, (the worst house, but one I ever set foot in;) I longed to hear, but was afraid to ask, about the baggage which I faintly hoped must be in Pittsburg; but as this is a great town, to say nothing of the great
tavern and great stage line--I must be more circumspect. Everyone knows that at taverns or stage-offices, (which are mostly the same thing,) there is a small share of attention of some sort or another paid to the arrivals and departure of the stages. Either the landlord himself, his barkeeper, his farther [sic], his son, his ostler, his cook, or his shoe-black, and I have once in my life seen a chambermaid come to the door after dark with a candle in her hand to aid people--woman, an aged woman particulary [sic], in dismounting from the stage, but no one appeared with a light at this place. I requested the driver to go and tell the landlord to come and help me out, he being one of the corps aforesaid, said it was none of his business, and made himself easy; meantime, an old shabby man so drunk that he could scarcely stand brought the steps, (which are kept at stage houses for this purpose,) and placing them against the coach called to us to descend; not having recovered from my lameness, and without a light was by no means willing to trust myself with Tom Toper, and told him to go and request the landlord or bar-keeper to come and bring a candle--not even a lamp at the door! He staggered into the house, and after staying some time, he returned. I asked him "If any one was coming with a candle," "O do you want a candle?" said he. To be brief, he appeared to be a stranger, and did not know the bar-keeper from Adam. His highness the driver, who had amused himself in exchanging salutations with his brother ruffians, began to be impatient, and we had to risk our neck at last by dismounting as well as we could. The old drunkard was the politest man I found at last, and offered me his hand. "Get away you old drunkard," said I, "do you think I would let you touch me." "Not so drunk as you think," he replied with much spirit. The lady and myself, rendered each other all the assistance we could, and descended safe, and bid adieu to the line for ever I hope. As we stept in at the door we were met by a finished-up, shrivel faced, grey headed animal, more like a babboon [sic] than a man, he had a candle in his hand and thought he came to conduct us in--not he, he only came to receive the way-bill, to ascertain how muchmoney was due for our fare. This was the stage-agent who kept his office in the house. But as for the landlord or barkeeper, saw none. Some of the people who put up at the place, had the politeness to show us into a small dirty over-heated parlor, where Tom, Dick, and Harry, were enjoying themselves at their ease, about two thirds drunk; a servant coming in, I request supper, and to be shewn into a private parlor, it being customary at all taverns that ever I was in before to keep a separate parlor for females; the servant replied only by a grin. Meantime the windows being without shutters or curtains; the rabble from the supper table would stop at them, and gaze at us, and one of the fellows in the room who was very drunk, and who said he had seen me at such a place, was very troublesome. I prevailed with him however to go and hunt up the barkeeper and say, "We wanted supper and a chamber as quick possible [sic]." He sat [sic] off with great cheerfulness, and returning said, "Tea would soon be ready;" "but will the bar-keeper come," "he would be in, in a moment." All this while he had never seen the bar keeper, and doubtless, did not know such a man. After waiting events, patiently some time, a negro [sic] came in. I spoke very sharp to the servant, and asked if I was to have supper or not, he grined [sic] and went off. Shortly after this the bar-keeper, (as I found afterwards) came in, and I requested to be accommodated as quick as possible, or he must show me to another house. He was an awkward young man, but the best in the main about the house. After sitting in the parlor till I was ready to drop, and gazed at by every boatman in the vicinity, I was called to tea in the common dining room--no such thing, the servants apprised me, as setting private tables in Pittsburg; my heart began to ache your [sic] sure, but if any one I thought, could put up with such privations I could, and set down contentedly.
But you all wish to know about the baggage--then there was no baggage
of mine in Pittsburg so far as I was able to learn; the landlord who came
to see me at the supper-table, went to the bar-keeper, and returning,
brought the ill news that no baggage of mine had arrived.
She was unaccustomed to travelling, and observing she had not taken tea
when I did, I thought, perhaps, she was scarce of money, and gave the
chamber maid a trifle to give her a cup of tea and some bread and butter.
She had complained of a head ache, and being a widow, and destitute, I
felt for her. I sat up till she should have finished the tea, (she being
in bed,) to lock the door after the maid, she waiting till the lady should
have done. Whilst I was sitting at the table, deliberately reading a
newspaper, the lady sipping her tea, which was placed in a chair by her
bed-side, some one knocked at the door: the maid opened it, and in pops a great negro [sic]with a load of something, which he took from his head, and setting it down in the middle of the room, said
"Trunks!! are these your trunks, madam." "Yes, those are my
This was quick work: "But where have they been all this time?" He could not tell; nor have I heard from that day to this who had them in possession, or where they came from; and had I made a great stir I should, probably, never have seen them again; but the perfect indifference I testified at the loss no doubt alarmed the proprietors of the line, as it proved I considered them liable.
I have my doubts however, as to the fact of their coming that evening, from a similar occurrance, [sic] which I shall mention after a while.
Now, these trunks had been carried away five days since, where had they
been? why did they not arrive in the mail stage or any stage before? I had enquired at every stage-office on the way, they must have been known to be mine from my name, which was on the way-bill; and it
is not probable the drivers, honestly disposed, would leave trunks of
their appearance at any house but a stage-office. But let them have been,
in whose possession they may, every one who had a hand in the business
beyond doubt ought, and would have been sent to the state prison, had they
been prosecuted; and it was not only one man or one stage office, but the
whole line from the top of the Alleghany [sic]to Pittsburg, was
guilty in as much as they, seeing a woman's name on the trunks, and the
same in the way-bill, and no woman in the stage! If these robbers were not
combined, why did they not stop the baggage and make the drivers give an
account of themselves? how did they know, and what right had they to
suppose any thing than that I was murdered, and there is little doubt but
I would have been murdered, had I not quit the stage, as the driver and
passengers could have no other motive in attempting to keep me in the
stage by force. Had the proprietors been innocent, they would have come
forward as gentlemen (which they are not,) and apologised, and given up
the principals of this daring outrage. I should have spared them and exposed the guilty. This
* / ** The Broadface drinks rather freely.

How Do I









